August 20, 2006

John, Mike, and me

In my July book club meeting, I mentioned that I was going through a bit of a John Wilkes Booth fascination. It turns out that my friend Mike also was familiar with Assassins and the Lincoln assassination. I mentioned that I was even thinking about doing a little "Booth escape tour"--following Booth's path from Ford's Theatre to the Garrett Farm, where he died. "I'll totally go with you!" said Mike.

For the boring details, make the jump, or visit Mike's blog, where he might post his (undoubtedly well-written) version of the day...

Today was the big day. We started at Ford's Theatre, where Mike had only been once before, for a play. I think we may have rushed a bit through the museum; I realized in the middle of the ranger's presentation there that I didn't point out Booth's diary. Whoops! We did go to the presentation, even though we both knew the story (Mike read the same three books that I did--Manhunt, American Brutus, and Blood on the Moon). Particularly impressive was the speed with which the ranger sped through (understandable, given the number of small children). We dutifully trooped over to The House Where Lincoln Died (easily the best name EVER), which is fairly unimpressive, but it is good to get an idea for the place.

Then it was on to the escape route. First was the Surratt House/Tavern (which really just sneaks up on you). There was an interactive map with a very emphatic narrator ("At the river crossing, Booth gave his OWN NAME and ACTUAL DESTINATION!!!"). The docent at the tavern was absolutely fantastic. She did talk about the objects in the house, but was sure to give the history, and had no problems being gossipy about Lincoln assassination folk (i.e., the authors of the books we read). Honestly, she rocked, was knowledgeable, honest, and wasn't at all boring.

And she wasn't all brainwashed, either, which cannot be said for the docent at the Dr. Samuel A. Mudd House. Unlike at the Surratt House, Mike and I weren't the only ones on the tour--a woman and her two nephews and niece joined us. I felt a bit bad for them; the docent focused mostly on the actual objects in the room ("And that table was given by the Mudds on California") and zoomed right by a lot of history ("The letters Mudd wrote from prison..." Woman: "Mudd went to prison?"). Mike and I were fascinated at the way she glossed over any hint that Mudd was in the wrong ("He was wearing a beard and Mudd had only met Booth twice"), and her assertion stated factually that Edwin Booth was a better actor than John Wilkes.

I think it says it all that the tour is based on a book written by Booth's daughter--clearly an impartial source. Also bewildering was the docent resentfully saying that she had to be a member of the Mudd Society.

Anyway, after the tour ended (culminating in the best piece in the Mudd house, which was a sampler in the kitchen that says "Housework is a Bummer"), Mike and I hung around in the backyard, waiting for the family to come out. Once they did, we clarified a few things the docent said (she had mentioned both Powell and Spangler, not explaining either) and discussed a bit about the Mudd controversy. The woman seemed to appreciate it, and the kids seemed more interested than they had in the house itself.

Then it was on to the Garrett Farm, where Booth was tracked down, shot, and died. Well, we didn't really go to the farm, as it's no longer standing, but we did go to the marker on the side of Rt. 301 indicating the general area the house used to stand (the actual site of the house is in the middle of the large median).

The return trip was the arduous part; apparently you shouldn't try to take Rt. 301 north on a Sunday evening, because you will be trapped in traffic forever. But honestly, a lot of what made today insanely enjoyable was just getting to hang out and talk with Mike. Since we had read the same books, we could discuss them in detail. And a lot of other things--Les Mis, Mary Worth and various other comic strips, Jane Austen. Plus getting a bit stir crazy after sitting in traffic ("Seriously, we've been sitting in traffic longer than it took Booth to get from DC to here!").

Anyway, it all rocked. Next up...the Poe house in Baltimore!

Posted by Barb at August 20, 2006 11:12 PM | TrackBack
Comments

Too bad Sarah Vowell got there first, huh? ;)

Posted by: Pat at August 22, 2006 09:22 AM

Last night, reskimming the pertinent sections of Assassination Vacation, I realized that we didn't go to the little shrine where the Garrett Farm was! Gah!

Posted by: Barb at August 22, 2006 06:17 PM

Guess you'll have to do it all over again! Think Mike'll be up for it?

Posted by: Pat at August 23, 2006 02:12 PM

Doubtful. Unless we decide to visit Poe sites in Richmond, then take Rt 301 back, which...no. Not happening.

I realized I also didn't point out Booth's journal when we were in Ford's. Whoops.

Posted by: Barb at August 23, 2006 07:40 PM
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